The week that was (28 April 2016)

Saveur's French issue. It’s everything. In Paris, you can read tips on where to shop and eat from the women behind Le Servan or take a look at the talented Yves Camdeborde (chef/owner of Le Comptoiret al.)

The issue tells a wonderful tale of terroir through the eyes of some serious culinary stars: from the Aubrac (Wylie Dufresne on meeting Michel Bras) to Bordeaux (building the “Guggenheim of Wine”); from Lyon (Boulud on their acclaimed bouchons) to Normandy (the reign of apples and Calvados), then back down south to the exquisite mountains of Chartreuse, home to the wild alpine roots that flavour the bitter French aperitif amer.

And finally, to that beautiful part of the world where Provence meets the Med and the enchanting tale of Lulu Peyraud of Domaine Tempier. Lulu's food was the epitome à la bonne franquette - that sense of informality, of serving each course onto the same plates and holding onto your cutlery, of eating simply and with the seasons, vegetables to start, fruit to finish, where the conversation flows as freely as the wine. Don't google it, because the literal translation does not do it justice, instead read the article.
 
- The 2016 James Beard Foundation awards for book, broadcast and journalism were announced yesterday in NYC. Lucky Peach took out top gong for publication of the year (and best blog). 
 
There’s visual storytelling via Eater (One Night at Kachka) while @freshcutgardenhose won best humour for an instagram account of illustrated somm speak. I chuckled.
 
For those who like to listen, the Southern Foodways Gravy Podcast (stories of people and place through food ... stories of the changing American South) won best podcast, while the BBC’s The Food Chain (the economics, science and culture of what we eat. What does it take to put food on your plate?) won best radio show/webcast.

The investigative report Seafood from Slaves was recognised for best food reporting – the journos behind it were also winners of a Pulitzer for this amazing series of articles. For something a little more light hearted, but still emotional and evocative in the way great food journalism should be, I loved the stories inPork Life, an autobiography in seven meals. Finally, regarding critical restaurant review, take a  look at the work of Tejal Raos, reviewing a re-worked Ko or, not mentioned but more recent, her review of La Sirena,Batalli’s new joint.
 
The James Beard restaurant and chef winners will be announced on Monday the 2nd May.
 
- A parting comment - this Saturday is Alex Herbert’s last at Eveleigh/Carriageworks Markets. Bird Cow Fish has been a fixture for the seven and a half years since the market opened. That's a lot of very early starts and massive days. It's also a lot of delicious omelettes and delightful conversations. She will be missed.

I have been thinking a lot about her contribution - about the chef among the producers. I have also been thinking about the producers' contribution. The importance of this exchange has been bouncing around my head since the “more chefs connected to the soil, more producers connected to the kitchen” exchange I mentioned post-MAD.

I want to talk about this next week. I am thinking about whether we need more solutions for our farmers and producers? It’s a tough slog to work all week in the fields and then get out of bed at 3am to spend a day on your feet at the markets. Do we need another model?? I was fortunate to spend a brilliant weekend with the team from Full Circle at Moonacre Farm two weeks ago. It was an exquisite example of the exchange going the other way. I would love to hear your thoughts as I collate.